My Road To Happiness

Yeah. Not really sure what happened here.  This appears to be the day I “lost” while in Lindos.  Here’s what I do know:

1. I spent the previous night in the apartment on Mt. Everest.
2. I met Vanessa’s father (Spa Lindos) and committed to staying 2 nights in one of the Tsambika’s Studio Apartments he owns just below the Acropolis (and across the alley from the Melenos Lindos Hotel).
3. I twisted my ankle when I failed to see that the extensive private balcony in my new apartment has a step down right in the middle.  Typical.
4. I tried to ignore that I twisted my ankle and walked around on it all day. Ouch.
5. I went back to Rhodes, packing everything I owned and checked out hastily, with my heart beating double time from excitement, like I was going on the lam.  I think that’s because it was so spontaneous and I was going “off plan” with no idea how it would all turn out. Cool.
6. I nearly tipped over the Toyota Yaris (twice!) as I attempted to get down to and back from the parking lot at the the main beach in Lindos.  Totally scary.
7. I hauled not only my belongings from the car (1 rolling duffle, one large duffle strapped on top) but the items still waiting in Mt. Everest (big satchel and many plastic bags) from one end of the village to the other where the new apartment was.
8. I had another unremarkable dinner at another large, empty restaurant called Symposio.  At least the waiter was a cutie.
9. I collapsed in a heap at the end of the night in my new apartment.

During this day I’m fairly confident that I spent yet another idyllic afternoon at Giorgo’s.  Since I was there at least 2 x a day, every day since Monday, I think that’s a safe bet.  I was writing my heart out under the shade of the trellis in a rare state of contentment.  This may have also been the night I closed the place down by camping out until 1:00 am. Again, writing.

Wednesday's Dinner

At this point I’ve been in Greece long enough to form some opinions of my own as I compare the experience to other places I’ve been.  For your reference, I’ve been to Europe many times (England, Scotland, France, etc.) and spent two weeks traveling all over Israel and Egypt.  I begin to see that this place has very little in common with anywhere else I’ve been.

I wondered what I would feel like during this trip, being on my own and all. I wasn’t worried about missing the company of others.  I’m pretty self-contained and spend a good deal of time with myself and my own thoughts.  I wasn’t concerned about my safety b/c I travel alone for work at least twice a month, all over the United States.  I’ve become comfortable with that.  I took great pains to research this trip, get organized and stack the deck in my favor as much as possible.  Still, I felt some discomfort and I couldn’t quite identify what it was.

Sitting in Giorgos over the next few days I began to put my finger on it.  Greece (to me) has little connection to the culture of Europe and it’s little sister, America.  This probably makes me sound a little simple.  Of course I know it’s located in a completely different part of the world, it’s culture is older and the language - unfamiliar.  I guess I was operating on a subconscious idea that since so much of European and subsequently, American culture can trace it’s origins to Greece - it would be a similar experience.   Not so. Not for me.

Terrace at Tsambika's Apt.

This idea really solidified a few days later at the cafe Les Deux Magots in Paris.  I’ll just mention briefly the sense of relief I felt the minute I was in a cab headed from Charles de Gaul airport to Paris.  In that moment I realized how uncomfortable I’d been (even while enjoying myself) in Greece.  From the cab’s back seat I thought, “I understand THIS.  I know how this place works.  It looks/feels exactly like New York.” Shoulders relax, contended sigh.

I am surprised and little disappointed with myself that I’m less open and adventurous than I thought.  It’s fair, as by comparison to many people, I am.  The unfamiliar surroundings of Greece must have set me a little on edge and that is all on me.  Sipping my coffee in Paris, I realized that I could sit here all day and not be noticed.  In fact, as I looked around the cafe, there were several women sitting alone.  They were reading, chatting on their cell, whatever.  In Greece, I just didn’t see that happen.  Keep in mind, I’m talking about a small village here.  In Athens, that might be perfectly acceptable.  But, here in Lindos, you do not go about unnoticed as a woman on her own.  In fact, I can’t think of another woman traveling solo I saw the whole time.

Inside Wednesday Night's Apt.

“Greece is for Lovers” or so the t-shirt says and that’s pretty much it.  There are families for whom Lindos is a long-held holiday tradition and they arrive en mass. There are large gangs of young people on a “spring break” style drinking / hook-up spree and affectionate couples in every other place you go.  I think it made me a bit of a curiosity.  Greece has a bigger sense of community than any other place I’ve been and the best description of their attitude toward me is one of gentle concern.  “Is she alright?” “What’s she doing here by herself?” “Maybe she needs help.” It’s kind of cool, but also kind of uncomfortable for me as I really do like to fade into the background and that isn’t as easy for me in Lindos.

That’s about all I can remember.  I must have gone back to the apartment and fallen asleep.

vitamin-b

Oy!

Just returned from Giant Eagle where I followed my list exactly and still spent over $100.00. It’s all about the allergy meds (Zyrtec) and Vitamin B (happy pill) and Vitamin D (happy pill two) for the lack of sun in Cleveland.

Even with my discount and coupons that put another $50 on the bill.

Geeze staying upright and in the right frame of mind sure costs a lot these days.

Tuesday morning I get myself up early and back to Lindos in time to meet Becca at the beach.  I pack a bag that contains what I need for the beach and for a possible overnight stay.  Once I saw how easy it was to find a room just by walking into a shop with a “room to let” sign over the door, I began toying with the idea of abandoning my “craptastic” apartment in Rhodes for the rest of my stay on the island.

Craptastic Apt in Rhodes town

There are 2 beaches. The “main beach” that you see on your drive in and the one that is just over the hill, behind the Acropolis.  The beach at St. Paul’s Bay is nearly deserted and Becca tells me that she and Nathan have had this spot all to themselves for weeks.

Today there are a few people coming down with their kids so we make our way to the other end of the beach nearer the small restaurant.  It’s wonderfully warm (though the water’s still cold) and I lay down and let the sun do it’s work on my frame.  You know how you feel the sun start on the outer layer of your skin?  Slowly it seeps into your muscles and they start to lengthen and let go of any residual tension.  You feel a sleepy and it’s hard to keep your eyes open.  If you let yourself go, the last thing you’ll feel is the warmth make it’s way all the way to your interior, down into your bones and you feel “well”.

A while later we head into the ocean.  It’s so clear it’s like standing in a glass of tap water.  I wish it was a little warmer but I know that would be a trade off.  Warmer means later in the season, more people, more annoyance.

Day at St. Paul's Bay

Becca and I go back to the same shopkeeper who turned her down for a month to month rental.  She’s happy to accommodate my one night request.  The room is immaculate and really, really cheap. Thirty (30) euro a night! Holy crapoly.  Now, of course it is at the very TOP of Lindos.  It’s like climbing Mt. Everest to get there.  By the time we arrive at the top I’m red faced and sweaty.  I still agree to rent it knowing I have to climb it at least two more times.  First just to check it out, for safety and cleanliness.  Then to go back and get my bags from the car and Sherpa them up the nearly vertical grade to my new room.

Thank heavens the air conditioning is working and I head right to the bathroom for a much needed shower.  The facilities really crack me up.  Essentially it’s a large, rectangular room that’s tiled floor to ceiling.  You enter at the far right of the room and in front of the door is the sink.  Midway down the room is a shower head sticking out of the wall just above a drain in the floor.  If you continue down the room, at the end, in the corner on the right is the toilet.  You could do your business naked, move to the shower next and finish by brushing your teeth.  All in one nearly contiguous movement.  I’m not saying I did that. Just that you could if you wanted to.

Spa Lindos

Now it’s off to Spa Lindos, where I booked an appointment for a massage and pedicure the day before.  It’s owned by Vanessa, an American-Greek who moved here and opened the business after she was married and emigrated to Rhodes.  The facility is gorgeous and they have a stylish clothing boutique on the main floor.  Her family owns several other popular Lindian businesses. Visit them all at Lindos Treasures.

I’m wisked through the store and into the courtyard around which the facility is built.  Instructed to climb some VERY steep wooden stairs to the rooms above the shop I wonder if they make the old people getting treatments here perform this daring acrobatic feat.  Once inside the room is dark and cool compared to the heat and humidity outside. It’s not airconditioned but the thick stucco walls and wooden shutters keep the heat out and the air flowing in and out.  It’s an ancient system and it works.

My massage is handled competently and it’s badly needed. Hauling my stuff all over the island has taken it’s toll on my shoulders.

Now off to get a much needed pedicure.  I climb down the stairs again, cross the courtyard and enter a separate building where they handle the feet and hands.

I feel a 100% more human after a shower, massage and pedi.  I head back to Mt. Everest, put on some cute clothes and make my way out to dinner.  Now, don’t laugh.  I decided to have dinner at a Mexican restaurant.  In Greece.  Yeah, yeah, I know.  I’m an ass.  I’m perversely curious and can’t help wondering what Mexican food in Greece will be like.

Lolos the Mexican Restaurant

“Lolos, the Mexican Restaurant” is right next to Alex’s where I ate the first day I visited the village.  The rhythm of the village still eludes me.  It’s 7:30p and there’s hardly anyone out and about and eating.  I am the ONLY customer in the Mexican place that’s not a relative.  I break my own NY’er rule to never eat at a place that isn’t packed with people.  I consider that it’s early in the season and a slow tourist season because the economy sucks and take the plunge anyway.  That’s where I meet, Mike Savvaidis, owner and budding internet geek.

Mike grew up in Lindos too and we talk a little about the Turkish Yogurt lady who lived in the hills and the other characters in the Manus book.   Mike’s interested in upping his profile by creating a Facebook presence for the restaurant.  I agree to give him a hand and as usual these things never go smoothly as you hope.  I few margarita’s and fajita’s later we’ve put together a Fan Group for the restaurant and updated his personal profile.

I express my surprise that Lindos is so hooked up.  Everywhere you go has free wireless internet for customers.  He tells me the village is really committed to that and will be removing all the wires that currently connect the restaurants and shops this year.  The city has passed an initiative to make wireless a Village-wide affair.  Instead of each proprietor paying for access and then providing customers access via their own (often unstable) wireless router, access will be fed from a central village source and blanket the entire place.  Lindos will look even more authentic and lovely when the black wires snaking across the rooftops are gone.  I think that’s brilliant.

Mike’s pages are updated and ready to make new friends so I wander around a bit more but it’s late and by now I’m pretty tired.  I start back up the hills to Mt. Everest and sleep.

Just a quick note that I updated many of my previous posts on my trip to Greece with new photographs.

Check it out here: http://myroadtohappieness.com/blog/?tag=greece

Spanish Dancing couple by Smaddy

My friend Dusty and I want to go to Spain.

It’s next on the list of places for me and she is seriously considering retiring there.  It will be at least a year before we can go (as things seem now) and so we’ve decided to get in the right frame of mind by cooking our way through her 2 Spanish cookbooks.

Over the next year or so I’ll be reporting live from my kitchen and my stomach letting you know what it’s like to visit a country first through it’s cusine.

First up, Gazpacho next weekend on the Fourth of July.

I’m still working on writing about the other days I spent in Greece, but just to be helpful and to keep the content coming, here’s some things I learned on my trip that might help you.

DO - pack only 1 carry-on bag and a back pack or large (but manageable) tote.  If you’re traveling alone, and not checking into the Four Seasons, you need to remember that it’s all up to you.  You will be hauling all that luggage to hell and back.

I knew this.  I’m not a novice to traveling efficiently or alone.  In fact I spend about 3 days a month on the road for work. Yet somehow, I convinced myself that I had to travel like Mariah Carey on this trip. I paid the price.

Yeah, this was basically me.

I went to Greece with a large rolling duffle packed to the gills and a large, unwieldy (albeit good looking) tote bag.

I thought I’d be using my apartment in Rhodes as “base camp” and driving all over the Island on day trips.  I’d even brought my trusty expandable duffle for the trip home when I would need more space. It’s about the size of a hardback book when folded up and expands to an enormous size when unzipped.

If you’ve read about the trip you’d know I bugged out of the duggout about 3 days in.

Anyway, let’s just say that all the moving around I did and hauling through airports and schlepping up the cobble stone streets of Lindos has to be the reason I lost all that weight.  So, technically there’s a up side. However it was NOT comfortable and I needed a massage to undo the damage.

Here’s all you need to bring for a 1 week trip to the Greek islands: I have linked to the items I brought that worked and I recommend for you - or to give you a better idea of what I mean

• 2 swim suits (it takes a while for them to dry so you need a spare)
• 2 t shirts (one tank, one with sleeves)
• 2 pairs of sunglasses you won’t mind losing
• 2 pairs of shorts (one dress, one sport)
• 1 skirt that can be dressy or casual and match both the t shirts
• 1 dress (a light cotton or knit and in a neutral color)
• 2-3 brightly colored cotton, summer scarves (to dress up the skirt or dress)
• 1 sweater/jacket for cool early morning walks and cooler nights
• 1 pair of good, comfortable (NOT NEW) sneakers/trainers
• 1 pair of good low profile sandals
• 1 pair of fancier sandals for your skirt and dress (NOT high heeled)
• 1 bottle of noncomedogenic sunscreen (SPF 50 or higher) for your face
• 1 spray bottle of water proof sunscreen (SPF 30 or higher) for your body
• 1 beach towel (unless you know your hotel provides them)
• 1 product for your hair to protect it from intense sun and salt water
• Bobby pins/Pony tail holders
• Head scarf or bandanna
• Crusher hat
• 3 pairs of socks
• Travel packets of laundry soap
• Your usual beauty routine stuff (all travel sizes please!)
• Solarcaine, band aids and other routine health care items
• FOOT POWDER - I make special note of this b/c I didn’t bring it with me and paid the price
• 4 pair underpants
• 2 bras (1 sport, 1 dressy)

That’s it.  I still recommend bringing one of those amazing expandable duffles.   That way if you buy something breakable (like pottery, bottles of Olive Oil, etc.) they can go into the carry-on and all your soft clothing and shoes can be checked and travel home in the duffle.

Remember that anything you think should be on this list can be purchased over there if you really can’t do without it.  You’ll wash / rinse out your unmentionables and your socks so you won’t need one for each day.

World mobile phone usage map

Your Phone.  PLEASE if you’re traveling on your own (and even if you’re not) get a working cell phone for the trip.  You can a) set up a plan with your provider if your phone is already capable of working overseas.  It’s really not that expensive.  b) You can ask your provider to make your world phone workable overseas and then buy a sim card when you’re there that has a set # of minutes at a set rate.  It’s a pre-paid card so you can control expenses. c) you can rent cell phones on the island of Rhodes, at least so I suppose you can do it elsewhere.

I used my phone to call the tour company when I was waiting at the Athens airport and there was no one to meet me.  If I had no way to call them, I would have been uncomfortable waiting.  I’d have wondered, “Did I go to the right meeting place?”  “Did they get the wrong day?” I would have been worried.

When I was stranded with too much luggage at the port of Rhodes, I was able to call the car rental company and have them deliver the car to my location - A life saver!

The phone came in handy to write about and post about my trip.  It was a great way to stay connected and pass the time at night when I was about to tuck in and didn’t have television to put me to sleep.

Your satchel or back pack should fit under your seat comfortably and allow you easy access to your electronics, tickets, passport on outside zippered pockets and a big interior compartment.  Finally, it should be a safe place for your jewelry, which you will never check. Ever.

Room of Happiness

If you have to make a financial choice (one thing of another) I recommend you spend your money on a good hotel.  Book the best class hotel you can and come home with experiences not trinkets.  My vacation totally turned around after I got myself out of sparse, albeit, clean 1 room studios with no amenities or television.

Over the years I’ve heard a lot of people say, “Oh, I don’t care what my hotel room is like. I won’t be spending any time there anyway.”  I believe those people have never stayed at a truly beautiful hotel.  If you are going on vacation to truly get away and relax, you want to have a room that you enjoy. A place you’re in no hurry to leave and is a pleasure to return to.

So, that’s about it.  Bring a book and your iPod, for sure.  But whatever you do, if it doesn’t fit in your carry-on, either pitch it or pitch something that is already IN the bag to bring that.  You won’t regret it.

I’m completely jet lagged and there’s a lot to share about the rest of my trip.  I’m finishing the writing and will post the end of the story very soon. Thanks for your patience.

Whew! I’m writing this from Day 7 and although I wouldn’t characterize my days as hectic or my writing about them difficult, I sure seem to be falling behind!

Let’s see, I guess we’re at Monday morning by now and I’m driving back to Lindos. The previous night was rough. Somehow I managed to get a migrane that put an ice pick in my right eye that no amount of Tylenol could touch. All I could do for relief was keep the lights off and an ice pack on.
Fortunately, the pain subsided early in the morning and I grabbed a couple hours rest before getting back in the car.

It’s another sparkling morning and luckily there isn’t much traffic. I pull into the parking lot above the town square and make my way to the restaurant where Becca works. She’s not there yet so I tell Alex’s son, Costa, to let her know I’ll be nearby. Just around the corner is Gelo Blue. This was the first gelato shop in the village. The fresh cream and fruit used to be flown in from main land. Now they also serve coffee, simple sandwiches and dessert.

Double Greek with Sugar, please

I order more java (a double Greek, medium sweet) and chat up the two behind the counter. The first is local, the second, another English girl who came to work and stayed to live.

Becca arrives a little out breath from looking for me. We decide to get something to eat. She suggests Giorgo’s, a combination restaurant and bar just a little way down the road. It’s perfectly situated in the center of the Village and has the good fortune to be tucked into the corner where 2 of the main roads meet. It’s cozy and the small veranda in front stays cool all day under it’s grape leaves.

Under the grape leaves at Giorgo's

In contrast, the furniture inside is very modern and they’ve inserted TV’s under plexiglass in the floor that remind me of The Chicago China Club circa 1988. Despite this the place has a great vibe, homey almost. I end up spending a lot of time here during the next few days.

After lunch Becca and boyfriend Nathan start house hunting for an upgrade to their current place and I tag along. It looks like studio’s run the gamut from €275-375. I hear an entire house can be had for slighty more.

Their research method seems pretty random at first. To find a place in Lindos all you have to do is wander the streets and look for the “Rooms to Let” signs that are over many of the shops. I ask their companion, Will, how he found a place. “I got off the bus with my suitcase and they were all over me,” he claims, “I think anyone could find a place just by carrying their luggage into town.” Exciting.

Becca, Nathan & Will

All the rooms we inquired about were short term rentals and the pair agree to stay where they are for another month - they had to decide today - so we part ways. I head back to Giorgo’s to catch up on my writing. It’s peaceful there and I get cranking on the work.

A few hours later I’m back in the car and on my way to Rhodes City. I leave Lindos bathed in a sunset glow. I am filled with regret.

Leaving Lindos at Sunset

I’ve arrived late in the day so it’s easy to find parking in the lot closest to the entrance of the village. From there it’s a short walk down a steep drive leading into Lindos.

Entrance to Lindos Village

The narrow cobble stone streets are shaded by awnings that meet from opposing sides of the street. Grapevine leaves are cultivated to grow over the walk on a series of wires strung between the buildings in a makeshift trellis.

This makes a hot day bearable and it’s easy to wander slowly, taking pictures every few feet

Lindos Gate

I spot a wrought iron gate, with one side open that would make a terrific picture. Seated next to the entrance in a white plastic chair is an older man. He’s right next to the door and I don’t want him to get the wrong impression. I’m not taking pictures of random villagers like they’re animals in a zoo.

I say hello. His response comes out in a warm vibratto. I ask how he is today and he tells me he’s “very well”. As a courtesy, he asks after me and before I have time to think I hear myself answering. “I am really happy today.” This cracks him up. He shakes his head a little and says, “Good! Good!”

You know how some people just have a “thing” about them? A quality that draws your attention naturally and makes you remember them no matter how brief the encounter? This guy’s got it in spades.

I continued past him and explored the village for a few hours. There are still cheesy tourist t-shirts to be had and bad designer knock off bags but there is also pottery and art. Textiles and jewelry are everywhere.

When it came time to find a place to eat I thought, I’m going to ask the guy I saw at the beginning of the day.

It takes me a while to find him again. The streets are a rabbit warren of dead ends and we’ve already discussed my inability to tell where I’m going. He’s inside the shop across from the plastic chair. It’s a jewelry store called, “Alex’s”. I assume the guy inside is also called Alex.

Alex's Store is Great...buy something!

He remembers me and pulls out a chair for me to sit down and join him. Um. Okay. Throughout this trip I’m repeatedly faced with how abrupt I can be. I loved being a New Yorker because my personality allowed me to fit in right away but it doesn’t help me everywhere.

I launch right into questioning him about where to get a drink and maybe some nosh when it hits me I haven’t even introduced myself. He’s sort of smiling at me patiently and I’m pretty sure he is waiting for me to slow down and act like a human being. I bet he sees this a lot.

I start over. I give him my name and he gives me his (it’s Alex). Although I try to get a recommendation out of him for a local spot to hang out, he’s not being specific so I don’t know what to do. Finally he mentions he has a place just up the street. I’m willing to check it out because at this point I’ve taken up a good chunk of his time. His wife jumps in and offers to walk me over. Good thing too since the directions he gave me were also pretty vague. Sally, makes the comment that like all great men, her husband Alex is useless with directions. I’m useless with directions too. It’s never occurred to me before that’s a good thing.

View from Alex's Restaraunt

Alex’s restaurant is a multi-tiered terrace and Sally advises me to head up to the top deck where the breeze is best. This is when I meet the “other Rebecca”. Technically, she’s a “Becca”, she’s 19 and from Yorkshire.

Fresh faced, blonde and lovely she could have walked straight out of the pages of any magazine ad for Benetton or the Gap. She also must be bored out her mind because she’s been talking to me for about 20 minutes.

She’s here with her boyfriend to work over the summer and apparently they just had a falling out earlier so she needs someone to complain to a bit. She’s sweet and I don’t mind the company.

Alex's Greek Sampler Platter

The afternoon passes pleasantly here and in the lull that comes when a family from Cornwall is seated next to me, I take out the Manus book. “Dancing on the Tables” is a comprehensive history of Bill’s family life in Lindos from the early 60’s to present day. It’s not what I’d call a real page turner, but it’s entertaining and packed with information about how Lindos grew. As an example, when he moved his family here from America Lindos didn’t have running water or electricity. Gutsy.

Sally notices the title and says, “I’m in that book! He calls me the pretty red-haired girl.”  Turns out that the Alex I met is the man who’s entrepreneurial spirit is responsible for a good deal of what Lindos has for night life now. He’s also from one of the older families in the Village (the Stamatelos’) and there’s some great stories about his family.

It’s been a great day. Becca, sweet thing that she is, offers to show me around tomorrow and we agree to meet the next morning.

I walk back to my car wishing I’d just booked in Lindos from the beginning. We’ll see what we can do about that.

First Beer in Lindos